My Old Delhi Ramzan Eats

The sinful Shahi Tukda opposite Kareem's.

It’s the month of Ramzan, and looking at all the food photographs from old Delhi on social media, I am reminded of a couple of great walks I had been on.

If you are in the capital or plan to visit the old parts of the city, these are the foods and joints I would suggest. I am sure a local can add a lot more to this.

Start your evening with a robust nihari at Kallu’s near Delite cinema. The spicy curry warms you up for the evening ahead. The nihari gets over by 5.30 pm though, so do hurry.

A mango kulfi at Doolichand Naresh Gupta near the Turkman Gate might be just the right thing to cool you after the nihari.

You cannot come to old Delhi and not have chaat. So, do head to Ashok’s chaat corner; it is easy to find as it is close to the Chawri Bazar metro station. Insiders say that it is representative of old Delhi chaats, though the inner lanes offer better.

Scene from old Delhi.

Then walk down the lanes close to Hiralal. It is one of the few kulle chaat walas left. Kulle is a form of chaat that uses hollowed-out potatoes, guavas, tomatoes or cucumbers and filled with a spicy kala masala mixture as well as boiled chanas. The chanas are the tiny ones, and are not available easily. They also have a nice cubed deep-fried potato with chaat masala.

Next head to Bademiya for the fantastic rice pudding-like kheer that they make. It is mellow in taste, which acts as a counterpoint to the spicy chaats.

Next, look out for Moinuddin Qureshi who sets up a kebab stall by the streets along with his son. His beef seekh kebabs are considered to be the juiciest around.

The oily yet delicious Mutton Korma.

Leave the Chawri Bazar radius and move towards the Jama Masjid. Shift gears from beef seekhs at Moinuddin to butter cream chicken at either Anmol’s or Aslam’s (the latter is more famous) for the most succulent butter hazed chicken experience.

Close to Anmol’s, is the original branch of the legendary Kareem’s. While some old Delhi veterans find it touristy, no trip to this part of the capital is complete without a stop here. Visit them for the mutton barra (grilled ribs) and the mutton korma.

The best way to end your Ramzan food experience is by enjoying a sinful shahi tukda with ice-cream at the stall opposite Kareem’s. It is heavenly!

Photos: Kalyan Karmakar