This International Women’s Day, Celebrate the Timeless Resilience of Sindhi Cuisine with Chefs Deepa Chauhan and Jyoti Vishnani
Sindhi cuisine, often overlooked, is gaining recognition thanks to dedicated chefs preserving its rich culinary heritage.
Sindhi cuisine, often overlooked in the broader landscape of Indian regional food, is an ever-evolving culinary tradition shaped by migration, adaptation, and cultural resilience. Unlike most Indian cuisines rooted in a specific geography, Sindhi food carries a unique fluidity, influenced by the regions Sindhis have called home since partition and beyond. On the eve of International Women’s Day, we shine a light on two chefs dedicated to preserving and elevating Sindhi cuisine: Chef Jyoti Vishnani and Chef Deepa Chauhan.
Includes edited excerpts.
The Fluid Identity of Sindhi Cuisine
Sindhi cuisine has no fixed geography, which has significantly influenced its evolution. From the bustling streets of Mumbai to the bylanes of Bangalore, Sindhi households have learned to adapt their food to what’s locally available.
Chef Jyoti Vishnani sees this adaptability as a strength. “That’s the versatility of Sindhi cuisine. Even before Sindhis migrated during partition, there was one wave of diaspora much before that, where Sindhi merchants shifted to different countries for better opportunities. So wherever Sindhis migrated, they adopted that region’s local produce and gave it their own identity. For example, Sindhis in Maharashtra or Gujarat use a lot more curry leaves than those in Delhi. While a few ingredients might have changed, the core flavors and textures are still preserved.”
Chef Deepa Chauhan shares a similar perspective, explaining how migration has impacted the ingredients used in traditional dishes. “For instance, in Sai Bhaji, a mix of six to seven greens, we traditionally use Chukka Palak. But in Bangalore, where I live, I don’t find it. So I use sorrel greens or Gongura. That’s the beauty of Sindhi food—there is no one correct recipe. You use what you find and extract flavors from your masala and make it work.”
The Overlooked Non-Vegetarian Legacy
Sindhi food is often perceived as predominantly vegetarian, but historically, it has had a strong non-vegetarian presence. From fish pakoras to bhugal mutton, the Sindhi culinary landscape was once rich in meat and seafood.
Chef Vishnani attributes this shift to socio-economic factors during and after partition. “There is mention of fish pakora, bhugal mutton, and keema-based dishes in Sufi gatherings, often paired with local wines. But during partition, survival became the priority. Many Sindhis also gave up non-vegetarian food when they started following spiritual paths, which is why our non-veg delicacies didn’t get the credit they deserved.”
Chef Chauhan adds another layer to this narrative, highlighting the historical consumption patterns in Sindh. “Sindh was geographically diverse, with harsh winters, mountains, and a coastline providing plenty of seafood. Fish, especially pallo from the Sindhu river, was highly prized. But post-partition, financial hardships meant people relied more on vegetarian food, as it was cheaper and easier to find.”
Rediscovering Lost Sindhi Recipes
Both chefs have taken it upon themselves to revive forgotten Sindhi dishes through research and pop-ups.
“I always speak to Mrs. Alka Keswani—she’s an encyclopedia of Sindhi cuisine—or a few chefs from Pakistan to understand their cooking traditions,” says Chef Vishnani. “One such recipe is Handi Kebab, made with mutton or chicken, while Muslim Sindhis make it with beef. Another is Kunhe Ja Beeh—lotus stem steamed in clay pots.”
For Chef Chauhan, one of the most fascinating lost recipes is Sindhi Khoya. “It’s a laborious dish that takes about six hours to prepare and requires expensive ingredients. I try to serve it at my pop-ups to introduce people to its richness.”
Another technique she works to preserve is the slow-cooking method of ‘Seyal.’ “Seyal means cooking something in its own moisture. For instance, seyal mutton is slow-cooked with onions and tomatoes without adding much water. These techniques are disappearing because people don’t have the time or patience for slow cooking. But when people taste my food at pop-ups, they say, ‘I haven’t had this kind of slow-cooked dish in a long time.’”
Beyond Dal Pakwan: Underrated Sindhi Delicacies
Sindhi cuisine is known for Dal Pakwan and Sindhi Kadhi, but several lesser-known dishes deserve recognition.
Chef Vishnani highlights a few such gems: “Bhee Ji Tikki (lotus stem cutlets), Palli Dodo (chane ka saag with jowar flatbread), and Thoom Wara Meya (tinda stuffed with garlic, green chili, and coriander) are just a few examples. Another fascinating dish is Aani Ji Bhaji, where the vegetarian version replicates fish roe shape using gram flour dumplings.”
Chef Chauhan also emphasizes the importance of jowar-based dishes, like the traditional Sunday meal of mutton curry with jowar ka dhoda—a mix between a thalipeeth and a bhakri. “It has a lot of greens and is incredibly wholesome,” she says.
Sindhi Cuisine: Home-Style or Fine Dining?
Both chefs agree that Sindhi cuisine is deeply rooted in home-style cooking, yet it holds the potential for fine dining experiences.
“It evokes nostalgia,” says Chef Vishnani. “Most dishes are homey, but that doesn’t mean they lack complexity. There are multiple textures and layers in each dish. That’s why I constantly research to elevate it and make it a fine dining experience driven by personal stories.”
The Future of Sindhi Cuisine
For a long time, Sindhi cuisine remained overshadowed by more mainstream Indian regional cuisines, but that is changing, thanks to dedicated chefs like Vishnani and Chauhan.
“There wasn’t much awareness before social media,” Chef Vishnani admits. “Growing up, even I took my cuisine for granted. But once I started traveling, I realized how much I missed my soul food. That’s what pushed me to create pop-ups and festivals—to build awareness and make Sindhi food more accessible.”
As Chef Chauhan puts it, Sindhi cuisine reflects resilience and adaptability. “People may not realize it, but we have borrowed from many cultures and yet held on to our core flavors. It’s time Sindhi food gets the recognition it deserves.”
This International Women’s Day, we celebrate these women who are not only preserving their culinary heritage but also bringing Sindhi cuisine into the limelight, one dish at a time.
Shreya Mukherjee
Shreya loves a good Harry Potter conversation when she is not busy figuring out the best toppings for Ramen. An avid reader who enjoys all forms of story-telling, you will find her either reading or binge-watching shows. She also loves spending her weekends taking care of her skin while figuring out which restaurant to get a take-out from.